First drill advice, and/or combination multitool?

Tool Talk
#15

Given your states uses being primarily home projects, I would recommend a Ridgid combo. The tools are very solid, and the Lifetime Service Agreement is perfect for someone using them for personal use. All you have to do is register them, and then you get free batteries and service for life. They are better quality than a Ryobi, they are also manufactured by TTI, same as Milwaukee, and they are running a sale I believe currently at Home depot where you can get a free set of batteries or tool, if I’m not mistaken. There is an available cordless circ saw as well.

Also, I would agree with the above, although you CAN “drill” with an impact driver, I wouldn’t do it. A drill is a drill, and an impact driver is an impact driver. They serve different purposes, and each does that purpose very well. I use drills for drilling holes, and setting hardware screws, or any screws that you wouldn’t want to risk stripping out. I use an impact driver for setting self tapping wood screws, or lag screws deep into wood and pulling parts together.

1 Like
#16

Ryobi made by Milwaukee! Good to know.

The reason I keep bringing up the drill difference is because there is no definitive place on the 'net where I can find the differences between hammer, impact and “normal” drills, written in laymens terms. I find myself a pretty handy person who can put together and think creative solutions, for example, but I don’t know the terms that help me distinguish between those drills. So I guess I want the basic drill, which can do everything reasonably well (but not some things the best).

You all are super helpful, thanks!

1 Like
#17

Well if you want a quick and dirty explanation of the difference here you go.

A drill just spins the bit and can go anywhere from really slow to really fast.

A hammer drill spins the bit just like a drill, but now imagine using a hammer and a chisel on a concrete wall. You hit the head of the chisel with the hammer and break off a small chunk of the wall, then you turn the chisel a few degrees and hit the head again. Now imagine doing this thousands of times a minute.

A rotary hammer is like the bigger cousin of the hammer drill. It can hammer more powerfully.

For an impact driver, imagine using a wrench on a nut, then take a hammer and hit the wrench to turn the nut a few degrees. Repeat over and over. This is basically what an impact driver does.

There are trade offs between an impact driver and a drill. An impact driver usually turns slower, especially under load, but you can get enormous torque. Generally you need to use special unhardened bits/sockets with an impact driver, if you use hardened bits they can shatter.

Also with any hammering or impacting device you want to use hearing protection.

1 Like
#18

I just read the rest of your original post so I’ll answer more of that. Your first question was should you buy a drill or an impact driver. Others have explained this but I’ll do it too. An impact driver is designed for driving fasteners while a drill is designed for drilling holes. If you’ve never used an impact driver you’ll be surprised at how much faster and easier it is than a drill. Whatever brand you end up buying from, here’s what I’d do. The first power tool I ever bought was a drill and impact driver combo kit from Makita. It came with a drill, impact driver, and 3 batteries and a charger for just over 200. All brands offer these for various prices. But that way you get the tools you’re looking for and batteries, which are more expensive than tools in some instances. Now you’re in a brand and you can buy bare tools for cheaper. I know that’s a lot so I hope it makes sense

1 Like
#19

Whats weird is, looking at the Makita brushless, I simply cannot find a basic drill - they seem to only sell hammer or impact. Or am I missing the correct model?

1 Like
#20

If you want a brushless regular driver drill, not a hammer drill, I think your only options are a compact model. I know they are sold by Milwaukee and dewalt, and I think Makita is working on one but it’s not out yet. Why don’t you want the hammer option tho?

1 Like
#21

I’m a little late to the thread, but I’ll throw in my two cents.
I am a seasoned pro and an unabashed tool-head. I am constantly upgrading my tools out of want rather than need. I tell you this to tell you I have used every major brand of cordless tool on the market, except festool.

The most important thing I have learned about cordless tools is that you are buying a battery. All things equal about the tool (and they are pretty much the same), the power source can make using the tool an exercise in frustration. The big tool companies are constantly competing, so the best brand today may not be tomorrow. That said, the best battery today is the Milwaukee within the 18v class.

Right now you can get killer deals on the Milwaukee red lithium series. You could probably get both the drill and impact for the price of the Fuel drill. If you were a pro I would highly recamend the Fuel line (brushless), but as a diy’er, I really don’t think you would ever know the difference.

2 Likes
#22

Dewalt makes one of the best cordless multi tools, fastest blade change out there. However, Bosch makes some darn good multi tool blades. PC OMT, same quick blade change, but ergonomics and performance lack a bit compared to dewalt.

1 Like
#23

I would say skip over the 12 volt systems for a first tool. Unless you live in a very small space or only going to do small jobs etc. Reasoning - there are some compact 20/18 volt system stuff out there - that have more overall power. So for a First cordless drill - I would start with the smaller drill/driver offerings of the 20/18 Volt families. Dewalt, Milwaukee, Makita, . . . . . . .

meh - pick your flavor - that fits your hands right. I say it like I tell people looking to buy their first hand gun. there is more out there than a Glock, or Sig or . . . . . . We are all slightly different. I prefer Dewalt stuff as their stuff works very well and happens to fit my hands gloves or no gloves wonderfully. So I bought into that system.

I also like that they are an American Hq company and traded on the New York Stock exchange - but that’s a political aside.

I find nothing wrong with the Milwaukee, Makita, or Bosch devices.

1 Like
#24

Over at the ToolGuyd Site Stuart had a recent post about recommendations for the best Cordless Drill Driver. Not surprisingly Stuart’s recommendations engendered a lively discussion with lots of counter proposals for what’s best.
The last year that I worked - we were using Makita 18V drill drivers and Milwaukee M12’s. I think if I grabbed 20 of our carpenters and 20 plumbers at random and asked them what brand and model drill driver was best - I might get 41 opinions.

Reading the discussion over at ToolGuyd, I observe that it is one thing to try to pick a best in class based on manufacturer’s specs and claims and some personal usage. It is much more difficult (certainly impractical and maybe impossible) to undertake a comprehensive test that will satisfy the needs of a spectrum of users. Even if Stuart were to assemble ALL of the currently sold contenders – would his samples be truly representative of the tool? If they came from the manufacturer – they may have been hand selected. If they came from a store or Amazon – maybe you bought a lemon (although that might tell something about QC). Then there is the testing. Do the tests simulate real world use? If so, who’s real world is being simulated? Since different users will have different uses and styles of use for various different applications – this would seem a difficult task? Furthermore, how do the tests remove user variability and insure consistency from on tool tested to another? How about testing over the long haul to see how the tool holds up after repeated use? Finally – while I’ve probably overlooked many other potential testing needs and pitfalls – I’m reminded that we are talking about testing to help folks select a TOOL – not a house to live in or something more important. We bought a lot of Makita LXT tools – not based so much on testing – but more on reputation of the company and what they had in their lineup. At the time we started changing over to the LiIon 18V platform – some of my guys asked for Panasonic drills – but I took that advice and bought Makita. We all learned to live with the Makita’s with varying opinions about what drill etc. might have been better. We made a similar decision later on to go with M12 tools for a different part of the business.

1 Like
#25

Hi,

I have also faced this problem when I started my first Woodworking projects. At the end of my researches, I did found corded drill is better option for a newbie. Power is most important issue when drilling.

As a newbie, you will wrong several times when drilling. So that you have more power. You don’t need to think about power of a corded power drill. If you have a cordless drill then you have to charge your battery after sometimes and it will be very boring.

If you are interested to read some good review of corded drill then you can find here
.
All the best.

1 Like
#26

Good points, but I cannot in good conscience recommend a corded drill to anyone. With Ryobi and Porter Cable making fantastic options that are great for beginners and budget minded pro’s alike. With the tool world offering cordless options that are starting to rival corded I see no point in recommending a drill with a cord.

#27

Three years ago I bought a new Porter Cable circular saw, reciprocating saw, and drill–all corded. The reciprocating saw was used once…the drill and circular saw never used. Every time I needed a power tool I’d grab the PC 18v toolbox. Now that I’m invested in DeWalt with a few Fuel tools, I’m completely hooked on the cordless life. I couldn’t imagine going back to my old jobs still relying on power cords and air hoses.

1 Like
#28

@cr8ondt

Maybe a big old corded drill for mud-mixing?

1 Like
#29

@fred I concede on that point lol

#30

Yeah cordless is even making inroads into Magnetic Drill Press use with rota-broach cutters. But they’re still a bit pricey compared to their corded counterparts:

http://www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/milwaukee-2787-22hd?cm_mmc=Google--PRODUCTFEED--MILWAUKEE-_-2787-22HD&CAWELAID=600009240005362004&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=38240591402&CATCI=pla-280726787225&CATARGETID=600009240005348794&cadevice=c&gclid=Cj0KEQjwuOHHBRDmvsHs8PukyIQBEiQAlEMW0BZkRLwF7SW1hvKKOWFvfJ6Fm-C2Pl34wg4ToaZZ5zMaAmZ48P8HAQ

1 Like
#31

a bunch of thoughts. I would also recommend the ryobi. As opposed to others I would actually encourage you to get a larger kit currently though. The ryobi kits, especially right now have a great value. Get a drill, impact, circ saw and reciprocating saw and you should be good for most everything you described. The only problem with most ryobi kits is they have The smaller batteries. I suggest running The 4.0 amp batteries for The saws, makes a huge difference.
The 5-1/2 circ saw will adequately cut sheet goods and will cut 2x4. The recip saw is a bit underpowered but should be fine for your uses, it can also be used for pruning.
I suggest going to stores and grabbing and holding tools to see what feels good. The weight, ergonomics or size doesn’t seem like it matters until you’re using it for a couple hours.
I didn’t read all the posts, but a couple additions.
on Any cordless hammer drill the hammer mode can be switched on or off so it functions as a regular drill as well. A drill should be a part of your basic kit because it has a chuck which is infinitely adjustable up to 3/8 or 1/2.
Also an impact driver is highly recommended (the new hydraulic version are great, much quieter). For your purposes they all have a 1/4" quick release mechanism rather than a chuck.

2 Likes
#32

i think corded drill will be better for you let me give a reason with corded drill you can work for long time don’t have to worry about for the power and it last long but if you go for cordless one you will have to think for many think like how long it gonna hold you have to charge the battery etc .

1 Like
#33

WOW after re-reading some of the comments I might have to back pedal a thought.

There’s absolutely nothing wrong with a corded drill for most tasks around the house. you most likely have a socket to use - you might not want to put much money into a drill as an early starting home owner.

far more importantly as I think about it. Dad and Grandpa did it. I mean really - my dad got by without a cordless anything until about 10 years ago - when I bought him one. and he doesn’t really use that one. I love my cordless - don’t get me wrong. But for the price of a dewalt Kit (and yes I know oyu can get a cheaper ryobi . . . . ) I can for some 35 dollars get a corded dewalt drill that will do all that- for a lot less.

replace the dewalt drill for whomever’s and you’ll have a decent products that you can use now - and keep on a shelf for later in life.

#34

If it were me, I would buy tools one by one as I need them. A Black-and-Decker or Ryobi corded drill/driver and a decent Japanese-style pull saw would be a good start. Be aware that you will need practice to use either one well.

You also need a combination square and some way to mark your cuts. I like those cheap snap-off knives at Home Depot for about a dollar each. You also need a tape measure, but preferably some story sticks, though you need to learn to use them. You may also need a bevel gauge for angled cuts.

If you are doing furniture, a random-orbit sander is a must-have. I like Bosch for their superior dust collection.

If you need to work at more than one worksite, then you might need cordless tools. Ryobi is a relative bargain, but I like the Milwaukee M12 tools. Ryobi has the advantage of offering a wide assortment of lawn- and garden-associated tools. Dewalt also makes premium tools, some best in class. But their lineup isn’t as broad as Ryobi (on the cheap end) or Milwaukee (on the premium end.) And they are pricey.

You don’t need brushless tools (yet.)

I would also invest a fair amount in developing your skills. Books, magazines, online forums, etc., can make your work better and faster.

Also, go to your local Home Depot or Lowe’s, and check out the tools they have for rent, and for what cost. If you don’t need particular tools every day, it might make more sense to rent them as needed.

Don’t forget safety equipment. Gloves and glasses are a minimum. If you are sanding, then you need dust masks.

And don’t forget your work place. You will need adequate space, adequate light, possibly ventilation and heat, etc. You will need some way to secure your workpiece, probably soem clamps.

Tools are both less and more important than people make them out to be. Be aware that if you underpurchase, it isn’t hard to sell your tools and get something more powerful. And you don’t need the absolute best drill/driver to install your Christmas lights. On the other hand, if you use your tools every day, then things like grip, smoothness, noise, visibility, etc. can make a big difference.

1 Like