My dad has these Kobalt ones and really likes them. I’ve worn them a few times and keep meaning to swing by and buy a pair.
http://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Large-Men-s-Leather-Palm-Work-Gloves/50119541
I wear the $10 Craftsman mechanics gloves a lot.
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I’ve killed those Kobalt one kinda quick too, albeit they did last a tiny bit longer than most.
I prefer no frills Wells Lamont leather gloves for rougher stuff (usually messing with brush/thorns) and just cheap rubber coated cloth gloves for stuff like rebar that’s been in the sun all day. For digging like you mentioned, well, I just destroy my hands the first few days and once they toughen up I’m done with gloves except for more extreme cases.
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Thank you sir.
I know hands can be become calloused and tough, eventually. I feel like, what with all our advanced technology, that we could do better, and that’s what gloves are for.
Cheers,
K
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I’ve had pretty good luck with the Mechanix Wear gloves. Well, specifically the ones with their synthetic leather product marketed as “4x Material”. I can’t say I’ve been as satisfied with all of their other products. Very good dexterity and very good durability. I find AutoZone and Advance Auto Parts carry them pretty regularly.
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Thanks, I will look for them.
K
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I did a lot of looking recently and settled on Superior Glove. Many of their gloves are made in Canada, and they’re very well constructed and priced. I got a pair of heavy leather gloves that are impact absorbing, plus lighter eight ones that have very high puncture and cut resistance. Been very happy with both so far.
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Thanks! They look pretty good. Some are available through Amazon too.
K
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I’m drooling over these All Leather Mechanix gloves I found at Duluth Trading:
http://www.mechanix.com/cg-full-leather
$50, yikes.
The only time I’ve ever spent $50 for gloves is my fleece lined leather gloves for walking the dog in -10F weather. They are the only glove I’ve found that you can take off to pick poop that will actually warm your hand back up when you put them on.
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My thought is still that work gloves are disposable items - they get dirty - wear out and even grow wings sometimes flying out of the jobsite never to be seen again. So there were no $50 gloves in our PPE orders.
But winter gloves - that’s another thing entirely. I did what was called okpik training for cold weather survival - both as a student and trainer in Maine. Polypropylene glove liners, gloves and then Gore tex over-mittens - were just one strategy for keeping your hands warm. The 3 layered approach cost quite a bit more than $50 - but no frostbite at sub-zero temperatures
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I usually stick with the Hardy Mechanics gloves the Harbor Freight sells, because they are comfortable, offer decent protection, and can be had for as little as $3.99 a pair, when on sale, or $5.99 usually. I often lose gloves, so I try to purchase low cost gloves, so I am not too upset when I lose them.
Here is a link to the gloves I am talking about. Hardy Mechanics Gloves
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Not a lover of gloves but when I do, I like the kevlar / dyneema cut resistant ones with the black foamed neoprene fingers and palms. These give me a tight fitting glove for dexterity with some protection from metal edge / splinters whatever.
3M make good ones, as do several others. In my parts of the world they would be $15-20 a pair equivalent.
Interestingly my wife has really taken to then for gardening. They last far better than leather, afford protection from thorns and broken glass when weeding and have been through the washing machine many times over.
In hot countries, I’ve had people complain against wearing work gloves because of summertime heat / sweating. In real cold, the gloves I describe don’t seem to provide any warmth at all …
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When working on engines do you guys not use disposible gloves?
I also recommend using either cheap PU or disposible gloves. Depending on the task at hand.
Any engine work needs good sensitivity and dexterity. Nitrile work well for me.
Something like these:
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Like most PPE I like then to be suited more to a purpose.
I have a set for yard work - they are leather wells lamont of some sort. tan with some stretch - and suede liner on the palm. thorny bush - hard branches - dirt - whatever they don’t seem to care. They live on that side of the garage.
I have a set for car work - specifically brake/suspension work. bolts are bigger - dexterity isn’t the primary concern but dirt and chemicals and beating the crap out of my hands is the bigger concern. Here I use a set of Mechanix gloves I got from a distributor on crazy sale. decade old atleast.
Oil changes - cheap o rubber gloves either form HF or better yet off my sherrif’s car kit. (seriously - they go though them like candy for crime scene stuffs so he has to keep a box or 2 in his car - occasionlly he tosses me a half used box - why. why not - so make friends with a cop). Reason - easier clean up. I’m not so much worried about exposure to ______ and cancer causing ______ as I only change oil in maybe 6 cars total though the year - but it is easier clean up.
I work on aircraft and I treat my car similarly in that when I’m working a system with nasty chemicals (or using nasty chemicals - nitrile gloves that have some texture on them. What we used at work was some industrial brand I think they are Uline. anywho nothing is more corrosive than Skydrol 3 once used. Longer story but I swear it can degalvanize steel. Dot 3 Brake fluid isn’t very far behind. It will burn like hell into that paper cut you didn’t know you had. Or under your nails. Glove up. Cleaning parts in the solvent bin - glove up.
Other work like taking off heads on an engine - no gloves. I need to feel and I can wash my hands.
Now the oddity - yard work again. Occasionally when you can find them on clearance sale. Golf gloves work wonders in the summer for holding on to things. Yes you have to buy 2. Synthetic leather golf gloves wick sweat wonderfully. I mean it’s for holding on your your club right - well it works well for holding on to your string trimmer, or drill or whatever when it’s 99 and 98% humidity. They dry fairly quick and hold up OK. Not for heavy yard work though. Yes I use my old golf shoes when I mow with the walk behind also - better traction.
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I like my Mechanix Impact. Especially for framing and demo.
Texas Good Gloves is a good seller of Geier Gloves. Geier Gloves are some of the best gloves around. Heavy Elksin 448 are great for barbed wire and other rough tasks and the Elkskin 445 are great for general use.
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I can second Geier Gloves 448’s. Easily the best leather work gloves I’ve ever used. Very good quality thick leather, nice and flexible, and extremely strong seams. I was recommended them by an old-timer at the local farmer’s co-op after he overheard me complaining about a $25 set of supposedly made-in-USA gloves I had previously purchased failing in just a few months. My pair is nearly 6 years old and are just starting to wear through on one of the thumbs and they’ve been through it all: felling trees, chipping brush, working with steel & sheet metal, operating OPE and heavy equipment, general contractor type stuff, yard work. Only care I’ve ever given them is to rub them down with a little boot dressing every year. The other nice thing is that Geier offers a variety of number sizes so you can get the fit right, it’s not just M/L/XL like so many other work gloves. I also really like how the finger seams are on the outside of the glove, this makes them a lot more comfortable.
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I have used ATG’s Maxiflex Active for years, and recently switched to a new brand (nitrile coated cut level A2) glove. Among so many minor brand gloves, this one works quite well, better than Maxiflex in that, this feels more breathable. Best thing I like is that my new glove retains same elasticity after 1 week of use. (Maxiflex gets loose feeling after 3-4 days of use, and usually I throw away then.) Thanks for reading.
Cool. Are you connected to FJDZ in any way?