Have You Seen Any Interesting Tools that are New To You


#41

Not sure if what’s on sale is just remaining stock - or if Stanley is still making these any longer.

Folks like Toolbarn - say “only 4 left in stock”


#42

The Stanley clamps that use wood (a 2 x 4) as the bar - got me thinking about the old Universal Clamps that grip onto the wood of a face frame or shelf and make it part of the clamping system.

http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/uniclamps.htm

I first saw these in 2000 - and the cost hasn’t changed much (they cost me $87.80 for 4 of the #76 - and $78 for a set of 4 of the #76A)

The disadvantage of them is that the aluminum marks the wood.


#43

Lee Valley - Veritas seems to have some new T-Track items that look interesting

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/WhatsNew.aspx


#44

New dovetail saw:

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/bad-axe-tool-works-stiletto-dovetail-saw.aspx?utm_source=iContact&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Product%20Video%20Email%20Blasts&utm_content=improve+your+dovetails


#45

I bought a set of the the Stanley 2x4 clamps a couple of years ago. The yellow bracket and the screws are metal, the rest of the black part is plastic, but they seem fairly rugged. That being said, I now have several pipe clamps and uniclamps and so the Stanley clamps are never used.

As was mentioned in the comments somewhere, the challenge is that 2x4s are pretty much useless as serious clamping bars, they are usually twisted or cupped in some way and are often too soft to actually hold up when significant force is applied. So what can happen with the Stanley clamps is that they will dig in to the 2x4 and therefore no longer be parallel to each other.

So in summary, product itself is OK quality but the dependency on 2x4 for bars makes other designs far superior in actual application.


#46

Over at the ToolGuyd Site - under Stuart’s pot about Rogue benches (new to me) a commenter § mentioned the Pollard brand. While not the same Pollard - it got me thinking about a local supplier (also sells on the Internet) where we often bought oddball plumbing tools, supplies and equipment.

I’ve provided a link to one of their offerings that we often used.

https://www.pollardwater.com/pages_product/P526_Curb_and_Valve_Box_Cleaner.asp


#47

Over on the ToolGuyd Blog - Stuart talked about assembling wire shelving and said that a deadblow hammer was a good tool to seat the parts together.

I have several deadblow mallets that I like.

The Nupla Brand ones seem pretty good - and some models come with interchangeable faces

http://www.amazon.com/Nupla-SPI-156-Change-Hammer-without/dp/B0025QIFH2/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1462970181&sr=1-2&keywords=nupla+dead+blow

here is another style of soft mallet - made of Sorbothane - comes in 3 sizes - vey good for woodworking.

http://www.amazon.com/Isolate-Sorbothane-Soft-blow-Automotive-Cabinetry/dp/B002SRS86Q

Stanley also makes nice deadblow mallets and hammers - including this big-daddy:

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-57-554-2-Pound-Compo-Cast-Sledge/dp/B00004UDN1/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1462970476&sr=1-1&keywords=57-554


#48

That tool looks similar to the one I use for a lot less money

I have made thousands of Copes with this tool I have pretty slick setup where the coper is on a portable wing just to the right of my miter saw and It takes the same amount of time for me to cope as it does to miter we probably install 130 to 140 pieces of base in 3 hours coping all inside corners and thats Measured cut and pinned


#49

That is pretty neat, but I don’t see it getting into the inside angles and corners well with a router bit. You will always be limited to the radius of the bit. What has been your experience?


#50

Kett - seems to have introduced some barrel grip shears and nibblers.
Not sure how new these are but here’s a link to one:

http://www.toolfetch.com/kett-kl-2040-13-gauge-shear.html

and more of their KL line:

http://www.toolfetch.com/search?q=kett+kl


#51

It doesnt seem to be a problem I work with several fairly detailed pieces of base regularly the small indented details that are on the base become Points that the router bit follows over when you make your moulding. I have finished just over 200 houses in the last 3 years and everyone of them that needed coping I had no issues

The Vast Majority of what we do is paint grade so I havent tested it on any stain grade base yet but I dont forsee any issues so long as you have a sharp router bit


#52

A Wood Worker’s Journal eZine just had an item about a new clamp from MicroJig (the folks who make the GRRiper

http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-MATCHfit-Dovetail-Router/dp/B01E9FAQDM?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A37PM3LLALXATG


#53

fred as usual you are an incredible resource.

These dovetail clamps look really interesting. I really like the picture on Amazon where they were being used for temporary table saw fences.

I wonder if there’s a clamp like these that uses t-track instead of dovetail.


#54

@Bengamin

If by using T-Track - you mean - can you get a clamp that has a jaw that can slide into the track and hold it down - you might be able to use (or modify) some track saw clamps for this purpose. I don’t recall the dimensions of the typical T-Slot or the track clamps - but I can measure mine.


#55

The new dewalt 40v backpack blower looks great, and holds two whopping 7.5 amp batteries!

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCBL590X2-Lithium-Backpack-Blower/dp/B01B7OUMCI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463605266&sr=8-1&keywords=dewalt+backpack+blower


#56

Im gonna just say WOW that’s awesome!


#57

@BigDan

Thanks - some serious blower - at a serious price too - but big batteries cost big bucks
.
I’m of an age where my HD garden equipment has been given away to the kids - and I let the landscapers take care of my lawn, trees and heavy cleanup. My wife still loves gardening but her cordless tools are more diminutive ones from folks like Gardena. But a blower is always good to have and if my Echo gives up the ghost - maybe a cordless will be good.


#58

I have some clamps for my DeWalt track and it looks like they are metric dimensions, 10mm wide and 5mm thick. I’m sure they could fit in t-slots well, but with thinner metal they wouldn’t be as strong as the dovetail ones and price wise they are pretty much the same. So might as well go for the dovetail ones unless you have a load of t-slots already.


#59

Struggling to change tires on a motorcycle is an issue for me as an old guy.
I saw this – and might give it a try:

http://www.amazon.com/Pit-Posse-PP3183-Bender-Motorcycle/dp/B005SUXOC8


#60

I recently came across a drill-powered concrete-form stake puller which looks innovative compared to the lever types that I’ve seen in use:

http://www.amazon.com/Hartford-Tool-Panther-Stake-Puller/dp/B007FFS9PG/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1463825894&sr=8-9&keywords=stake+puller

It appears to come in a few different varieties:

http://www.hartfordtool.com/concreteStakePullers/

The manufacturer has a few videos of it in use:

http://www.hartfordtool.com/stake-puller-videos

In one they compare it to a Tolman lever-type puller:

http://www.amazon.com/Tolman-Tool-Stake-Puller-Handle-S-P/dp/B0000224WU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1463825894&sr=8-3&keywords=stake+puller

They don’t compare it to what I’d call a tong-type puller:

http://www.amazon.com/Marshalltown-MSNP34-Stake-Puller-4-Inch/dp/B00NJYCTYO/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1463826231&sr=8-6&keywords=marshalltown+stake+puller

Nor does it deal with pulling nails if the stake has been nailed to the form:

http://www.amazon.com/Marshalltown-MNP09-Nail-Puller/dp/B00SWVQKK8/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1463826420&sr=8-11&keywords=concrete++stake+puller

In looking at these I saw another style – which I’ve never seen in use – possibly because of its high cost: