I have never used these discs, anyone who has used this or similar one can explain please how good they are and for what exactly? Thanks
These look a lot like ones that I have used called “Lancelot” - from King Arthur:
You use them (carefully I might add - as they can grab and buck) mounted on a small angle grinder for roughing work in power carving - outdoor sculptures etc. They are a bit less fearsome in this regard than power carving with a chainsaw.
Is that OK to cut trees (small trees) with them? At least partially? I like to be able to use every tool for more different purposes in case…
I never used one for that purpose. The depth of cut would seem to be really limited - so maybe it could be use to cut small thin branches - not trees.
I meant small trees with 2"-3" diameter. Something like branches. I would need to do that once in three years maybe. Thanks for the information.
StumpyNubs on youtube just recently had a serious accident with one of these chainsaw discs. I suggest watching his video and thinking carefully about how you use one of these safely.
In his case, it “bucked” and the disc removed a few chunks of flesh from one of his hands in milliseconds.
Yeeeach, I just watched that part of the video where he explained what happened. I didn’t even realize an angle grinder could bite you that way.
Sure it was with the chainsaw disc, but if it happened with that, it could theoretically happen with a grinding disc or with one of those slotted diamond cutting discs.
I wonder if a type 1 guard, maybe rotated to cover closer to the hand, would help.
I think I’ve used one of these chainsaw discs… once. On the other hand, I’ve used grinding, cutting and flappy wheels A LOT.
From what I could tell, I think he may have made two or three mistakes at once with how he was using the tool. Personally, I think I would want the guard rotated to the same side as the side handle and rotate myself or the work to accommodate that.
I also wonder if maybe a larger, “rat-tail” grinder might give you a better chance at retaining control of the tool if it “bucks”.
I suspect a grinder with “buck” detection would not have been able to stop the disc in time to prevent injury.
For that kind of work, I would strongly recommend a good manual pruning saw. Cheaper, safer, nearly as fast, no need for extension cords or batteries, works fine in the coldest weather. I like Silky saws. Most of them fold so they are easy to carry and store.
Alternatively, some people use reciprocating saws. There are recip blades made specifically for pruning. They seem to range up to 12", so they can handle pretty big trees (though that doesn’t mean YOU can.)
In a pinch I would consider using a cordless jigsaw. I wouldn’t mess with a circular saw.
Either way, if you don’t now how to do it correctly, you need to learn how, so you don’t pinch or break the blade, have trees or limbs fall on your head, etc.
I don’t know why these chainsaw blades would be better than a carving wheel (which would be solid, have no moving parts, etc.) Also, what keeps the chain taut?
I saw the stumpy nubs video too, I don’t think it was only user error, although he could’ve done some things better. There is a follow up video and a lot of discussion, and the consensus seems to be that this is not a good blade to use with a grinder. For sure, you don’t have a lot of experience with a grinder, this would not be a good place to start. Even if you do, some of the experienced folks there are saying they’ve never use it. A small chainsaw doesn’t cost much. You can get an electric one even. I’ve use the recip saw with a special blade for small branches and it works fine.
I absolutely love my electric Makita chainsaw. I’d love to test drive a dewalt or Milwaukee but I seriously doubt they’re as good considering that Makita co-developed it with Dolmar who invented the chainsaw.
The electric Makita is not perfect but it beats the hell out of every other electric or gas chainsaw I’ve used.