Battery cross compatibility


I’m confused on what he did.


My reading is that the poster is claiming to be using modified Worx slide batteries in old Dewalt 18V tools via the 18v/20V max adapter.


You’re spot on mate… FACOM a pro brand used by pro mechanics uses Dewalt batteries… Maybe this is what you meant?


The Ridgid plumbing and electrical I believe are completely separate and different from the orange Ridgid Home depot cordless tools, so I doubt it.


Wow. someone copied and pasted what I wrote on
Yes that is correct I converted all my Dewalt XR to work with my Slide 20v max Worx batteries.I also converted my Dewalt 18v Track saw along with some old Bosch stuff I had but didn’t have the batteries. I can’t upload pics as they’re too large?


Text message the picture to yourself, then save that picture it will compress the image to upload size. Some how to notes for entertainment value only, of course would also be cool.


This was on power tool modification post (see post 12 &13). But I feel it belongs here too.


Not really completely on topic but I have been using my Milwaukee heated hoodie with my Bosch power pack and batteries that I have for my Bosch heated gear.



How do you like the heated jackets? I’ve been thinking about then for some time but have seen mixed reviews on their effectiveness. Also I am 6’5" and when I tried on the XL Milwaukee jacket the sleeves were too short and chest on the jacket too big.

SMH…Tall guy problems!


I actually bought one for my wife and myself and then got a killer deal on the Milwaukee sweatshirt because of tools in action. The Bosch’ are fantastic. The sleeves are a bit longer, I’m 6’01" and about 240. The jacket will allow a hoodie underneath but that kind of defeats the purpose of the heated cables. I think in your case the tall might be a good one for you in XL. I will say, I’ve been using my jacket on my ATV since last year and it’s gone through quite a few brambles with nary a tear so it’s a really well made jacket.


I’ve just got one of the Bosch PSB 1800 based on what I read on this review. really happy with it. Plus the batteries are cross compatible with the range. Has anyone had much experience with Bosch before?


Anyone still checking this thread? (Fingers crossed…). Four compatibility Qs:

  1. B&D 40v batteries: Do they work in anything else?

  2. Milwaukee M12 system: what else will work with it?

  3. Milwaukee M18 system: what else will work with it?

  4. Any websites w any kind of cross-reference chart?



I’ve seen this:


I never tried that but have made an adaptor to use my Worx 18-20V ion batteries on my B&D tools & used them for years w/o any problems. I took an old B&D 18V battery case w/o battery inside, & mounted an inexpensive Worx charger to it (just the socket). Soldered the + to + & - to - terminals together. Worx 20V ion batteries are light, cheap & very long lasting. I even use it on my B&D chainsaw & hedge clippers & never a problem. When I notice any reduction in power, I change batteries before it gets too hot. I have some pictures of the assembly.


Just to be clear, you canNOT have DeWalt 20V Max tool compatibility with B&D 20V Max batteries just by grinding some plastic. The tools are electrically as well as physically incompatible.

It’s actually more feasible to use B&D 20V Max batteries with the older DeWalt 18V tools. This is what I run myself, allowing me to use my DeWalt 18V tools and B&D 20V Max tools all with the same B&D 20v Max batteries. There’s a guy on eBay who sells an adapter for this. Just beware, his instructions were (are?) wrong from an electrical standpoint.


Joined the forum just to share. So there are aftermarket adapters that allow use for Makita, DeWalt, and Milwaukee batteries to be used on Ryobi tools. Here in Dallas there is a neat place, like a 24 hr fitness, except it’s a workshop. $500 a year and you have access to lathes, 3d printers, plasma torches, etc. Been meaning to go and join to print parts for PC pancakes. Don’t want to buy the $50 manifold assembly, especially for a $3 plastic part and 50¢ o-ring (Work on tools for a living). What I am curious about, does the firmware of the battery track anomalies in usage? I know the Ryobi 40v batteries will lock themselves out when you repair them(the ground gets disconnected via firmware if you break the circuit. Somewhere on that dang pcb is some voodoo that kills the whole thing if it hits 0 volts before negative out, so if you change a capacitor, rectifier, or if it discharges below 26v and is left longer than a month, it self discharges to 0 and will never work again.) Long story short, anyone information on the t1’s 2’s 3’s would be appreciated. Also, most batteries are stupid easy to fix. Exception for the 40v, and Ridgid. I want to play with making an adapter for use of cheap batteries to expensive tools. I have a ton of Ryobi 18v batteries I have repaired as well as BD 20v and 18v batteries on deck.


Hello Gents, Carpenter (AKA Chippy from rainy Britain) rather tired of trademark games here…
I had whole galore of tools and compatibility issues, hence appreciate expertise shared here in relation to batteries.
We (In Europe) and especially in UK have even weirder system of trademark games, also we have a law, whereas construction tools on Site have to be 110V, whilst normal power supply is 230V and chargers comes… in 230V, funny, no? and it is the “law” for over 20 years, still, I end up importing most of my tools from US, due to the better chance of them being made in US, not China…
(another story about my 2’nd power tool imported from US Porter Cable 20V 16ga pin gun, that turned out to be made in China… :frowning: ah well, after paying customs Tax, it become rather expensive Chinese tool, BUT with 120-110V charger, so I can charge my batteries on site
Thus is after one of my first tools imported from US in 1996 Porter Cable skill saw, has been most heavy, but strong work horse, that my colleague managed to kill it after 4-5 years of use secured to the table, as a bench saw, loved it and remember it fondly)

Back to the batteries:
Porter Cable 20V are (semi) interchangeable with ??? Worx, Stanley Fatmax and Dewalt???

Also, I am awaiting for the delivery of big kit from US made by Ridgid (AEG), also few AEG tools shipments… needless to say, unless you gents can confirm or deny compatibility issues-
1- Ni-Cd and Li-In batteries are interchangeable on AEG tools, older chargers (Ni-Cd) do not charge Li-Ion batteries, Li-Ion chargers do charge both.???
2- any Ni-Cd or Li-Ion batteries, of any capacity (charged) work on any AEG tools. will that be the case with Ridgid tools? the reason I am questioning, as I have something like 5 AEG Ni-CD batteries of 2-3AH and new kits I bought (still waiting for) only comes with one 4AH and one 1.5AH (Ridgid -AEG Li-Ion) batteries.

Many thanks for further input gents!


Porter Cable 20v tools are (with minimal modification for fitment) compatible with Black & Decker and Stanley Fatmax batteries. They all share the EXACT same on battery control board.

As to your AEG/Ridgid battery questions, they should all work just fine, and yes the NiCd charger will NOT charge Li-Ion but the Li-Ion chargers WILL charge the NiCds.


wait a tick. In the UK on a jobsite - power tools have to run off of 110V power. which cycle UK standard 50 or US standard 60 hz?

and why on earth would you guys do that - and how do you accomodate that? I mean do you have to run some step down on site or ?

Never heard of such.


Well …
Normal “mains” is 220v- 230V 50-60Hz (as all cordless power tool chargers supplied :frowning: )
On site we use 110v 16A or 32A continues power tools or cordless, batteries are charged in Site facilities, canteens, toilets etc (apart from me :stuck_out_tongue: most of my tools imported from US, with 120v 60hz input :D)

We use round ended Yellow cables on construction sites, tradesmen need to have them yellow “step down” transformers or on bigger sites, we have supplied ones (smaller 16A outlets), but NEVER 220-230V…

Why do we do that?- Health & saftey Executive office LAW!
110v cables and tools are way less likely to kill a person, even there is a chance of having not enough of amperage to NOT to have electric muscle spasm- “Lock”

Why tool manufacturers do NOT supply 110v Chargers?.. that would mean their tools, couldn’t be charged on 220-230v DIY sockets and would require chargers to be plugged via transformers even at home…
( To give an idea of Voltages etc ), also our tools power are measured in W (Wats), not HP

because our rules and rulers do NOT have any knowledge of industry issues, lack common sense and most of us have to obey, accommodate their idiocies