Home Depot now has the Ryobi P193 6Ah batteries for sale in a 2-pack:
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Gents any reasonable Ridgid battery suppliers about? (my old Ni-Cd) batteries are dying, got few AEG/Ridgid, but when using several tools, last thing I want to end up short off âŚ
Thanks!
Admin Note: Two posts were removed due to their entirely political nature.
âŚThis thread scares me⌠The thought of using a battery outside of its natural system just screams fire hazard to me. Only takes a 0.1% inefficiency between the battery contact, and the tool contact, in order to cause a building resistance overheating problem. CAN you remove plastic to make them the same shape? Yes⌠Does it make the contacts line up EXACTLY like the battery it is meant to be? Can you guarantee it?
I dunno⌠I donât like those kinds of risks. If Iâm wrong even the tiniest bit, itâs a large investment to repair or replace the tool systems for me. If we want a cheaper way to do batteries, we should try and petition whatever company is giving us a problem to provide a Battery Rejuvenation program. Basically, after 3 years, pay half the price, they just replace the cells inside for newer ones, and give it back to you without wasting the plastic and metal that make up the shell of the thing. Voila, battery issues resolved.
Modding batteries⌠ugh⌠Only if you plan to never use them again, thatâs for sure. Doesnât matter how easy it is, Iâm not going to mess up any warranty or repair services I might have on my tools.
so if you check out your moden (recently say 5 years or so) cordless tool battery charger it should come to you with the ability to tolerate either voltage set.
Just like a modern computer. In that it uses a digital square wave to charge with so it creates one. But read the backs of the chargers to verify. or the manual. But it should take either 110/115Vac in or 220-230 Vac in - and yet put to the battery ___ Vdc at ___ A/hr.
and that last part is usually constant - though it monitors the needs of the battery to keep it happy.
I like some others in on this thread am a big fan of Porter Cable. 8 or 9 years ago I bought a starter 18v kit and added on to it. About a year ago I picked the 20v driver/drill combo and just loved it! However, I was infuriated that the new battery format would not apply to my 18v tools, all of which are still very usable.
I donât know if this has been mentioned prior but I ran across a YouTube video where a guy built an adapter that allows you to run your 18v batteries on the 20v Lion batteries. He has since perfected the adapter and now sells different variations of the adapter on his site:
He has different pricing variations but $44 will get you the adapter. I for one think that very much worth it, especially if you have some of the 18v tools you still enjoy using.
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That adapter looks decent, and would have been perfect to have found out about earlier this year, when Tractor Supply cleared out their PC 20v Max batteries (4Ah for $17!) and I still had my 18v stuff. The PC 18v system was my first foray into serious cordless tools (now DeWalt, Milwaukee, Ridgid, Ryobi, and Ego have supplanted PC), and like yours, my tools were still very enjoyable to use, albeit a bit underpowered and lacking the runtime of, say FlexVolt.
Surebonder makes a hot-glue gun that takes Ryobi 18v post batteries, and then they make adapters for Makita and Milwaukee batteries to fit their glue guns. Of course these work in other Ryobi 18v tools, too. Link: https://surebonder.com/collections/battery-adapter
I wish SOMEone would make an adapter to use Ridgid 18v slide batteries on Ryobi post tools. All the parts are on Thingiverse, just gotta combine 'em and print oneâŚ
I made a simple adapter by chopping up a scrap Ryobi flashlight to get the battery socket, and grafting it into a gutted Black&Decker battery, to allow my dadâs B&D weedwacker to run from his Ryobi batteries. It moved the center of gravity back a bit too, which was welcome on an otherwise-nose-heavy tool.
Iâve gutted the cheap Ryobi battery-cap chargers (the P111 and thereâs one other whose number I donât know) and the P150 battery-gauge, to bring out the power contacts to run stuff like my TS100 soldering iron, a series of LED lights, and yes, another gutted DeWalt 18v battery so we could run my buddyâs DeWalt radio off my spare Ryobi batteries.
I believe all the 18v lithium batteries have a protection board in 'em. (The 12âs not so much!), and of course the NiCd donât care what you do, so I consider it safe to intermix every which way. Itâs still prudent not to run something all the way until it stops â when you hear the tool slowing down, stop right there and recharge the battery!
Of course do NOT use these adapters for charging! Always use the native charger, unless you have your own balance charger and know exactly what youâre doing. (And even in that case, you might confuse the coulomb-counter in the board, if present. I havenât looked into that.)
battery adapter to use 20v batteries on 18v tools
https://www.amazon.com/adapter-20V-BATTERY-12v-outlet/dp/B07MM97MZD/
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Any idea if walmarts hyper tough 20v batteries will work with PC or BD tools.
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Stanley tools own Dewalt which is basically B&D re branded. they also own Mac tools Facom and Britool and Irwin. all their Power tools use the same batteries regardless of what brand name they choose to sell them as.
Milwaukee and Ryobi are owned by Techtronic industries in Tiawan. and their batteries are also interchangeable.
Snapon make their own cordless tools and their batteries are not interchangeable with any other brand
some Bluepoint tools are interchangeable with Bosch. and are not made by Snapon.
Dewalt and Mac cordless tools and batteries being compatible is the exception, not the rule.
Milwaukee and Ryobi are most certainly NOT compatible.
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This is mostly incorrect, Iâve talked of the Stanley Black and Decker brands battery cross compatibility at length. The short of it is 20v Black and Decker, Porter Cable, Fat Max and (Walmart) Bostitch batteries can be used with one another with MODIFICATIONS to the plastic or to tool and or battery. DeWalt and Mac are seamlessly interchangeable and 20v Bostitch (nail guns) can be MODIFIED, again by cutting plastic.
TTI brands, Milwaukee, Ryobi, Ridgid, can NOT be cross compatible. With a very minor exception with Ryobi and Artic Cove, they are completely compatible. Also I canât confirm but I think Ridgid batteries work on Senco(not a TTI brand).
I can confirm that the Surebonder Milwaukee-to-Ryobi 18V adapter works in Ryobiâs big, 18-inch room fan. I am powering my Ryobi room fan with a Milwaukee M18 12AH battery. With that battery, the fan lasts 18 or 19 hours on Low and, if I recall correctly, about 6 or 7 hours on High. I didnât test the battery and fan on Medium.
With the large battery, held farther from the fan by the adapter, the fan even balances better. That is, itâs less easy to tip over.
If you want to use the fanâs AC input, youâll need to remove the adapter. But even if you were using the fan with a native Ryobi battery, youâd need to remove the battery.
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Regarding PC and B&D max, would you possibly have knowledge about the general idea that someone, (many cordless tool owners)want to act on their older tool line; they want to see if these nicad tools would take the robustness of lithium 20 volt.
So in my case, do you have any thoughts or experience with me just using a cord to feed out of the two prongs in my Craftsman 19.2 drill handle and âriggingâ those ends to the lithiumâs POS&neg? Or does the internal Bauer battery chip prevent the current flow entirely? And the given is,(Iâve obviously just gone ahead to buy some of Bauerâs line because that investment is my âbreak-inâ to lithium power, and the charger that came with the whole tool deal too good to pass.
Wanted to mention Dremel and Bosch 12v are interchangeable if you pop off the plastic shoe at the base. The chargers are identical. Of course, same parent company.
I use Bosch 12v batts in an old pod-style Makita saw. The mod involved removing some of the plastic from the inside of the handle, swapping the poles in tool, and bending the posts together slightly. Iâve also done this mod for a Makita vacuum. Been running them for 2 years steadily without issue.
There is no battery that I know of that doesnât connect the cells directly to the terminals â except for Flexvolt which has a mechanical selector switch for 20V or 60V. You can basially arc weld with the batteries and they will keep giving current until you either melt down the li-ion cells or melt through the wires or contacts.
What does happen is the battery has electronics inside the cell, anything from a thermistor to a microprocessor monitoring all the cells that will communicate with only that brands tools and tell the tool to stop running if there is a problem. Some low draw tools donât even listen to the battery because they canât draw enough current to damage it. .
This is why there is no battery standard. Dewalt doesnât want to trust that Ryobi is going to do the monitoring correctly and doesnât want to be responsible when somebody smokes their tools or batteries.
You can do what you are asking, but you need to be careful. YOU are the circuitry between the tool and the battery and you need to make sure you arenât killing either or going to burn down your shop.
a lot of good things in this post thank you all for sharing!
I bought a populo 20v max Li-Ion Impact Driver and didnât receive the battery with it. Does anyone know where i can get a battery for it? Or know of any universal batteries? I canât find them anywhere.
