Battery cross compatibility


So are the Dewalt air tools the same as MAC air tools?
I’m hunting for replacement batteries for my Ryobi Backpack Blower
Anyone got any recommendations?


Home Depot now has the Ryobi P193 6Ah batteries for sale in a 2-pack:


Gents any reasonable Ridgid battery suppliers about? (my old Ni-Cd) batteries are dying, got few AEG/Ridgid, but when using several tools, last thing I want to end up short off …


Admin Note: Two posts were removed due to their entirely political nature.


…This thread scares me… The thought of using a battery outside of its natural system just screams fire hazard to me. Only takes a 0.1% inefficiency between the battery contact, and the tool contact, in order to cause a building resistance overheating problem. CAN you remove plastic to make them the same shape? Yes… Does it make the contacts line up EXACTLY like the battery it is meant to be? Can you guarantee it?

I dunno… I don’t like those kinds of risks. If I’m wrong even the tiniest bit, it’s a large investment to repair or replace the tool systems for me. If we want a cheaper way to do batteries, we should try and petition whatever company is giving us a problem to provide a Battery Rejuvenation program. Basically, after 3 years, pay half the price, they just replace the cells inside for newer ones, and give it back to you without wasting the plastic and metal that make up the shell of the thing. Voila, battery issues resolved.

Modding batteries… ugh… Only if you plan to never use them again, that’s for sure. Doesn’t matter how easy it is, I’m not going to mess up any warranty or repair services I might have on my tools.


so if you check out your moden (recently say 5 years or so) cordless tool battery charger it should come to you with the ability to tolerate either voltage set.

Just like a modern computer. In that it uses a digital square wave to charge with so it creates one. But read the backs of the chargers to verify. or the manual. But it should take either 110/115Vac in or 220-230 Vac in - and yet put to the battery ___ Vdc at ___ A/hr.

and that last part is usually constant - though it monitors the needs of the battery to keep it happy.


I like some others in on this thread am a big fan of Porter Cable. 8 or 9 years ago I bought a starter 18v kit and added on to it. About a year ago I picked the 20v driver/drill combo and just loved it! However, I was infuriated that the new battery format would not apply to my 18v tools, all of which are still very usable.

I don’t know if this has been mentioned prior but I ran across a YouTube video where a guy built an adapter that allows you to run your 18v batteries on the 20v Lion batteries. He has since perfected the adapter and now sells different variations of the adapter on his site:

He has different pricing variations but $44 will get you the adapter. I for one think that very much worth it, especially if you have some of the 18v tools you still enjoy using.


That adapter looks decent, and would have been perfect to have found out about earlier this year, when Tractor Supply cleared out their PC 20v Max batteries (4Ah for $17!) and I still had my 18v stuff. The PC 18v system was my first foray into serious cordless tools (now DeWalt, Milwaukee, Ridgid, Ryobi, and Ego have supplanted PC), and like yours, my tools were still very enjoyable to use, albeit a bit underpowered and lacking the runtime of, say FlexVolt.


Surebonder makes a hot-glue gun that takes Ryobi 18v post batteries, and then they make adapters for Makita and Milwaukee batteries to fit their glue guns. Of course these work in other Ryobi 18v tools, too. Link:

I wish SOMEone would make an adapter to use Ridgid 18v slide batteries on Ryobi post tools. All the parts are on Thingiverse, just gotta combine 'em and print one…

I made a simple adapter by chopping up a scrap Ryobi flashlight to get the battery socket, and grafting it into a gutted Black&Decker battery, to allow my dad’s B&D weedwacker to run from his Ryobi batteries. It moved the center of gravity back a bit too, which was welcome on an otherwise-nose-heavy tool.

I’ve gutted the cheap Ryobi battery-cap chargers (the P111 and there’s one other whose number I don’t know) and the P150 battery-gauge, to bring out the power contacts to run stuff like my TS100 soldering iron, a series of LED lights, and yes, another gutted DeWalt 18v battery so we could run my buddy’s DeWalt radio off my spare Ryobi batteries.

I believe all the 18v lithium batteries have a protection board in 'em. (The 12’s not so much!), and of course the NiCd don’t care what you do, so I consider it safe to intermix every which way. It’s still prudent not to run something all the way until it stops – when you hear the tool slowing down, stop right there and recharge the battery!

Of course do NOT use these adapters for charging! Always use the native charger, unless you have your own balance charger and know exactly what you’re doing. (And even in that case, you might confuse the coulomb-counter in the board, if present. I haven’t looked into that.)